A visit to Lingyin Temple November 26, 2005

One of our Chinese friends took us on a cold rainy Sabbath afternoon to visit an especially large and old Buddhist temple in Hangzhou. Many Christian and Buddhist sites were destroyed during the cultural revolution (1965-1975) but we were told this one was spared because the University students and faculty would not allow it. On the other hand a publication on the internet says that the main temple was restored in 1974. What ever the case it is still an impressive complex of buildings. The pinnacle of the main building reaches to 110 feet. This building is said to be the tallest single story building in China. Inside is the 65 feet high Buddha carved from 24 pieces of camphor wood and covered with gold leaf. It sits on a pedestal about 15 feet high. On each side in front of the Buddha are 5 rows of kneeling cushions. We were there at the time of their evening service when 100 robed priests gathered in rows beside the cushions. At the sound of the cymbal they all turned toward Buddha and bowed several times After this the large drum began a rhythmic beat and the monks began a chant. We watched until a family of 3 were led before the Buddha. We have read that when a Buddha is first set up and dedicated the priests invoke Buddha’s presence who is believed to come and reside in the idol. His presence is maintained by a continual offering of candles and incense.

The temple is in the end of a canyon with “Peak flown from afar” to the south and North Peak to the northwest. The center was first planted by an Indian monk in 328 A.D. who found the site so conducive to meditation and the hill overlooking it so much like one in India he decided to set up a temple. The hill was thereafter known as “flying from afar.” Over the centuries the complex has had to be rebuilt many times. At the height of its power there were as many as3,000 monks residing here. There are now at least 100 monks who serve and at least 15 halls and rooms. One room has 500 life-size statues. Others have smaller statues of Buddha and other deities. A library has on display ancient writings and other relics of ancient times. Stone carvings dating back 1000 years are another feature of this site. Among these are two stone pagodas in front of the main hall. In addition in the cliff side of peak flying from afar there are 340 carved statues of Buddha in grottos.

In spite of the rain there was a continuous stream of worshipers and sightseers. The buildings behind the main hall are built on the hillsides. One of these is a place to honor the dead. Another a place to seek healing. At all of these places worshipers would burn incense sticks, they had bought upon entering, bowing in each of the 4 directions. They would then go before the numerous idols and silently kneel and bow several times with folded hands. We were told that at the time of the Spring festival that lasts 2-3 weeks as many as 20,000 people each day visit this temple. We were saddened to watch so many bowing down to idols. But many of these people do not profess to be Buddhists they just go through the rituals, “just in case it might help.”

We will not soon forget this experience.

Paul and Darleen